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2015年09月25日

Is it Time to Rethink Fashion Week?

The PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Week had all the markings of a success – most importantly a stellar lineup – and yet it fell short of being sensational. Perhaps it’s time to rethink the elements.


How does one stand out at fashion week?


That’s a question Vanessa Friedman, Chief Fashion Critic at New York Times asked after New York Fashion Week, which was unraveling in the Big Apple around the same time as fashion week was taking place in Lahore. Friedman tossed the answer between concepts, ideas, celebrity appearances, gimmicks and ultimately, better collections. There may be a good seven decades of experience between NYFW and PLBW but the issues, uncannily, are the same.


So, how does one stand out at fashion week when there are almost two-dozen collections vying for attention, season after season?


The easiest way, it may seem, would be to pay for your exclusive little posse of IT girls to promote you on Instagram but that’s not a very credible way. Let’s turn to the ethical options. Ali Xeeshan is infamous for pulling out the theatrics and this year it was a guest appearance by Mickey and Minnie Mouse. The gentile may have been appalled at the blow to their aesthetics – the gimmick did reduce his otherwise strong collection to comic proportions for a moment – but it was unforgettable nonetheless. Purpose served.


Is it Time to Rethink Fashion Week?

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While NYFW can afford to play with nudity or sexual transgression for a headline, the knee jerk answer to attention in Lahore, as Friedman would put it, is celebrity. So Ali Xeeshan roped in celebrity appearances by Sohai Ali Aabro and Meesha Shafi. Celebrity appearances, of course, are always a crowd puller at fashion week and we saw Ali Sethi lip sync for Fahad Hussayn, Meera Sethi walk for Nickie Nina (many of us wondered why) and Uzair Jaswal, Mehwish Hayat and Humayun Saeed all turn up the heat for Nomi Ansari. Sara Haider rendered the Coke Studio version of ‘Aye Dil’ for Mahgul; it would have been nice had Ali Zafar joined her. Day One had Fawad Khan and Farhad Humayun in the front rows, possibly courtesy Samsung Galaxy, a sponsoring brand whom they are ambassadors of. Bottom line: there was no shortage of stars at fashion week. And they twinkled away.


Was the venue a befitting arena for those stars and bedazzling collections to shine?


It wasn’t. As pretty as the Falettis property may be, the weather forecast nudged the red carpet indoors and created a haphazard mess, which it was impossible to navigate through without getting stepped on or shoved around. If the space was cramped then the ‘creative chaos’ of logos on the backdrop caused even more visual confusion. Why must sponsors insist on being ‘in your face’ at an event when only style should shine? It’s a mystery only advertisers or their handlers (like Mindshare) can solve.


Back to locations, it’s time PLBW rethought the venue. 22 designers showed at fashion week this year, out of which at least seven were a sheer waste of time to sit through. Time really is too precious to waste anymore. That said, all these designers have a market and there’s no reason why they shouldn’t have a slot to show. There also is no reason why we are subjected to their monotonous and unexciting versions year after year. Their shows should benefit their buyers only. The solution? Customized locations.


The Bryant Park tents in NY packed up in favour of customized locations years ago; it’s time PLBW followed the same course. New York Fashion Week features approximately 300 shows each season. Only a dozen or so are critiqued in mainstream media and the rest are documented on the numerous directories online. Likewise, Fashion Week in Pakistan must have the capacity to accommodate whosoever wishes to show (it’s not a sorority, after all) but media and buyers must have the choice to attend whichever show they please. Mandatory attendance has to discontinue. Please, we’re not in high school anymore.


Also, customized locations will take creative showcases to new levels. Givenchy held a fashion show on Pier 26, ‘in the shadows of the New York skyline,’ Oscar de la Renta took it to an iconic ballroom. Even couture shows in India are conceptual. Lahore may not have the budget to go all out (even though the number of Birkins per square foot may suggest otherwise) but being confined to your seats for three odd hours – whether you love or loathe what you see – is also very pedestrian. The creative process must evolve. It’s time to move on. Quite literally.


So, are designers moving on, creatively?


Yes and no.


PLBW boasted a stellar lineup this year, with maybe just a couple of names inducing an ‘oh-no’ kind of creative coma in the mind. Most of it was solid, with strong trends emerging in the shape of crop tops (a toned mid riff is the most important fashion accessory this season in Lahore), baggy 80’s style tunics replete with empire sleeves and boat necklines and skirts. The skirt most definitely is the new ghagra. Disturbing, however, was the obsession with badly constructed can-cans, murky colour palettes, shoddy workmanship with beads and baubles dropping off and a regurgitation of last year’s mood boards.


“In the end, what sticks with you are the ideas,” Vanessa Friedman said in an interview with Times Insider after NYFW this year. “It’s like going to a host of modern art galleries: a lot of what you see is derivative or silly, but then you see one show that makes you reconsider what you thought you knew, and suddenly it’s all worthwhile.”


The House of Kamiar Rokni is what made it all worthwhile. But if Alchemy was an explosion of brilliant ideas, then most of his contemporaries coloured safely and conservatively within the lines. While Sana Safinaz and Sania Maskatiya kept their designs modern and wearable, their competitors preferred to weigh their models down in cumbersome tradition. One model even pulled a muscle in her back as her gown weighed an unbelievable 30 kilos. Almost as much as she did.


Wedding wear is revivalist in essence but while Elan paid a glorious tribute to The Jasmine Court, her imitators could only make it to the dark shadows of the gullies. While Nomi Ansari presented an immaculate, picture-perfect palette of colours (his craft is impeccable), many of his fellow designers playing with colour ended in a muddy mess. Shamaeel and Misha Lakhani played with their signatures but there were just as many designers who didn’t have one. For every awe-inspiring collection there was one that let itself down.


What about the new designers and rising talent?


Not all of them will rise. Let me first stand up and salute Bank Alfalah for putting up such a valuable platform where one deserving candidate wins a 500,000-rupee stipend for starting his or her business. This year’s winner, Hamza Bokhari of Jeem was my personal favourite as you could see him thinking like a designer and not a pretty socialite whose network of fawning fans would assure she succeeds even if her surname doesn’t. That was the Bank Alfalah Rising Talent. But what was the ‘PFDC Introduces: New Bridal Designers’ segment. Rather why was the ‘PFDC Introduces: New Bridal Designers’? It was unnecessary. Mahgul is established enough to have her own segment and Suffuse should have been in Rising Talent. Or not, judging by what we saw.


Last(ing) impression: the look


It’s amazing how pretty fashion week looks in Lahore and that lasting impression of glamour, that feel good factor will always be its biggest strength. Front rows flourish with well heeled fashionistas who seem to have tumbled out of their bed in Louboutins. Good looks are in abundance whether it’s the IT crowd or the media; Lahore does host some of the prettiest young things on the circuit. And then there are the fashion creatures: Ali Xeeshan in his beastly white beard (this season), HSY who continuously refers to himself in third person and has three bulky body guards shadow him everywhere. They even inhale and exhale in unison. There is Fahad Hussayn, who seems to have returned from Hogwarts and there is the Kamiar Rokni – Rehan Bashir designer duo, who always look like they’re on their way to Akbar’s Court. The women – whether Maheen Kardar, Nickie Nina, Ammara Khan, Saira and Shakira, Khadijah Shah or the perennially well styled Sara Shahid – are simply beautiful. What would fashion week be without them all?


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Lahore even has the best models in the country and when they are made-up by the whizzing wands of Nabila’s creative team, they bring magic to the runway. All this gorgeousness comes together under the watchful eye of Sehyr Saigol and to the average bystander, it is bloody impressive. Seriously, if fashion week in Lahore were to be judged by looks alone then it would be stuff dreams are made of. The reality, however, is lacking ideas, concept, innovation. There needs to be more that is said and expressed at fashion week. Where are the statements, the political reflections, the shocking expressions … where is the novelty of ideas? The PFDC L’Oreal Fashion Week has established itself as a solid platform but to go from good to great it has to rewrite the plot and pick up the place as well as the pace. As Friedman says, “In the end what sticks with you are ideas.”

  
タグ :Fashion Week


Posted by milanstyle at 12:14Comments(0)fashion week

2015年09月21日

Fall fashion brings flared jean renaissance

I had an argument with a friend over flared jeans.


This is probably something that only happens to me, but it happened nevertheless. Fall fashion has a heavy 1970s inspiration, and with it, I expect the flared jean renaissance I've been predicting for years.


This particular friend is a skinny jean enthusiast. But isn't everyone these days? For the better part of a decade, skinny jeans have dominated our denim options. Even the guys are wearing them. The part that nobody seems to remember is that, when they first became popular, skinny jeans were just as feared and despised as flared jeans are now.


JEANS

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I can vividly remember my first pair of skinny jeans. It was 2005, or thereabouts, and I got them at a very aggressive Express sale for $9, probably because the world wasn't really ready for them at the time. Although they were hard to get used to, I'm a firm believer that everyone, no matter their body type, can make a trend work.


However, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't ready to take back control of my denim options. I mean, slightly-too-tight skinny jeans are actually creating circulation issues and subsequent injuries for people. Time for a little denim versatility.


No weird dye jobs


A flattering pair of jeans is a flattering pair of jeans no matter how you slice it, but if this is your first flare rodeo in, say, 10 years, there are a couple of things to keep in mind that make the shopping experience easier.


First and foremost, you are looking for solid denim. No weird dye jobs, whiskers, holes, studs, sequins, or even conspicuous logos. Literally just denim. Embellishments can make the jeans look dated when, in fact, they're very of-the-moment.


Another old-fashioned trademark to avoid: too-wide flares that actually cover your shoes entirely. You always want to be able to see at least the toe, so plan to get them hemmed if you're short. Lots of retailers offer free simple alterations, so check the website and find your new pair from a place where you can get that service.


Speaking of tailoring, it's important to decide whether you're hoping to wear the jeans with heels or flats. (This is one thing we'll all need to re-familiarize ourselves with, since skinny jeans did not present this problem.) Flared jeans with a mid-rise waistline just below your navel, fitted through the hips and thighs and starting to get looser at the knee, are super flattering. I think they're even more flattering worn with heels, so that's what I use as a guideline for tailoring. Whatever your decision, it has to be consistent so the jeans stay at a flattering length.


Styling your flared jeans


This is not very difficult, as long as you steer clear of other trendy pieces. Stick to the classics: neutral sweaters, blazers, button-down silk shirts and pointed-toe pumps. Tops worn are usually best when tucked in with a belt. For sweaters, you can do a half-tuck and leave it untucked in the back to create some shape.


There's one popular type of top that's a lot easier to wear with flared jeans, and that's a cropped top. We're not talking about something incredibly short, but a boxy style with a shorter hem looks so much better with some volume on the bottom. Take this opportunity to style all your cropped sweaters with ease.


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タグ :Fall fashion


Posted by milanstyle at 15:51Comments(0)fashion week

2015年09月17日

West Dorset couple's wedding with a difference

IT was a wedding with several differences when Beaminster vet Pam Sibley and farmer Ed Bowditch said their vows.


The couple decided from the outset they'd help raise money for the Dorset and Somerset Air ambulance and were pleased representatives of their favourite charity could come to the ceremony.


The ceremony itself was help in a field in Bowood where they they live and the 'church' was made by Ed himself from straw bales.


The service was conducted by a humanist after the bride made a spectacular entrance on her 17hh warmblood horse Ben.


HAPPY DAY: Pam Sibley and Ed Bowditch raising money for charity on their big day

The couple raised the money by giving away drink - dispensed by volunteers from the Beaminster Young Farmers - in exchange for donations which amounted to £1200.


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Pam said: "We wanted to do something for charity but we didn't want to charge people for the drink we just wanted to have donations "We are both outdoor people, Ed's a farmer and I am a vet and keen horserider so we thought probably the air ambulance was a good one to support "Also the Beaminster Young Farmer were raising money for last year so they ran our bar all day for free in exchange for the donations."


Both Pam and Ed are former young farmers.


Pam added: "It was a great day. I rode in on my horse Ben. He can no longer compete so I've loaned him to a man who just hacks out but I borrowed him back for the day."


Pam had to use stepladders to get on Ben, who obligingly stood still for her. Then she trotted after the tractor and trailer containing her bridesmaids.


The bride's auntie and maid of honour Alisa Ormsby was the official photographer for the day - taking lessons specially for the occasion.


She said: "It was beautiful, you could see the whole of Lyme Regis in the view from the church."


Ed and Pam were thrilled with the amount raised and were lucky enough to have representatives Ron and Pam from the Dorset and Somerset Air Ambulance attend the special day to mark the gesture."


'minimoon' to Devon for a few days before Ed had to head back for harvesting.


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タグ :wedding


Posted by milanstyle at 15:18Comments(0)wedding

2015年09月11日

Priceless moments, memories

AUGUST 29 will always be a special date for newly-weds Shanette, nee Grimes, and Kerwyn Price.


Their romance started on that date in 2013, and the two exchanged vows on their second anniversary at the New Life Tabernacle, Kendall Hill, Christ Church on August 29.


easy-fid3a

They then went on to Mahogany Ridge, St James for the reception and the celebration of the special occasion continued. Shanette was fashionably late as most brides are wont to do, but it was arguably well worth the wait in the sweltering heat. She was a picture of beauty in her white gown with strapless top and layered bottom. She also had a thin layer of the same shades of pink and blue worn by the men and women in the bridal party at the front of the gown at the waist. While not necessarily the exact shades, the colour scheme was reflected among the guests.


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Several of the invitees to the small and intimate affair sported pink and blue in their clothing and accessories. Kerwyn and Shanette were cocooned together in a canopy as the vows were exchanged. They repeated the traditional pledges to each other and shifted slightly from the norm at an interval to recite vows to each other which they had prepared. The Prices are special in more ways than one.


They beat out several others to emerge winners of the annual Forever I Do competition, which is sponsored by the NATION. Their prizes included bridal attire, a wedding reception, wedding transportation, floral arrangements, lingerie, a honeymoon and a bridal registry. An interesting twist in the Prices’ story, is the fact that they are both half of a twin. Kerwyn’s identical brother, Kevin, stood right beside him as best man through it all. And while she was not the maid of honour Shanette’s twin, Shaneese, was one of the four bridesmaids so she, too, was up front and key to the proceedings.


A touching moment was when the quartet got together for a photo opportunity outside the church, immediately following the ceremony. The only thing that would have made it more perfect was if Kevin and Shaneese were actually dating. That is not the case, but word on the ground is that wedding bells will soon be ringing for at least one of them. Lots are being cast as to which twin will follow the sibling who has already tied the knot.


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タグ :bridal


Posted by milanstyle at 14:50Comments(0)wedding

2015年09月08日

Wedding news

A wedding ceremony in Saudi Arabia took a sudden turn for the worst when a bride had insisted that she would return to work after getting married which was strongly opposed by the groom and his family.


A Saudi man, right, buys a wedding dress at a shop in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

playA Saudi man, right, buys a wedding dress at a shop in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia (Arab News)


The Saudi bride and groom had started the wedding proper and were about to sign the marriage contract when the woman had raised the issue of returning to work which caused a heated argument between the couple's parents.


According to Arab News, a source revealed that “When things started going out of control, the court officials requested both the parties to resolve the matter calmly. To everybody’s shock, the groom’s family walked away without any further discussion.”


The bride's mother fainted as a result of the shock she got when the groom and his family stormed out of the wedding premises.


A court official said, “Although they were engaged, the couple did not meet or communicate with each other in keeping with the Middle East tradition.”


A Saudi Bride

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The official said that such incidents, which have become common, and can be avoided if parents gather all the information and share the willingness of the couple before fixing the wedding date.


Abeer M., a social worker, said most of the Saudi men don’t go for too independent and self-confident women. “They rather prefer a housewife. Although the culture is changing, the tradition is still the same.”


She said: “There has been an increase in the number of highly educated women with good jobs, who are considered overage. This is one of the reasons for the sharp rise in the number of spinsterhood in the Kingdom,” she said.


In this Aug. 3, 2008 file photo, a Saudi man stands in front of a wedding dress at a shop in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.

playIn this Aug. 3, 2008 file photo, a Saudi man stands in front of a wedding dress at a shop in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. (AP)


An accountant, Afrah Ahmed said that Saudi men are men of two mentalities - "some don’t like women going out and working, while some don’t mind them working, but can’t tolerate wife in a higher position."


“With a change in lifestyle and rising prices, it is important that both husband and wife work to fulfill the needs,” she said.


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タグ :Wedding news


Posted by milanstyle at 12:14Comments(0)wedding

2015年09月04日

Are you a marriage miser?

As the wedding season draws to a close, research reveals how thoughtless and stingy British guests can be.


A cheeky 41 per cent of Britons have repurposed something from their own home to give it as a gift to the happy couple, while one in five have signed their name on another guest's gift.


One in 10 have even lied to the newlyweds by telling them their gift is on its way, when in fact they haven't even bought it.


And it's not just what to buy that's keeping Brits awake at night - but how much to spend, according to the survey of 1,536 adults.


A tenth of respondents admit that they overspend in an attempt to not look cheap, with £32 being the minimum the average person can spend without looking like a skinflint.


A stingy 7 per cent admit they would prefer not to give gifts to newlyweds full stop, if they had a choice

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And with gifts being the largest costs incurred by British wedding guests, who on average fork out £215 on each wedding they attend, it's perhaps not surprising that 14 per cent of those surveyed confess to having turned up to a wedding without a gift at all.


And a stingy seven per cent admit they would prefer not to give gifts to newlyweds, if they had a choice.


However, when it comes to guests at their own weddings, Britons think they should be given gifts costing £52, despite only being prepared to spend £46 themselves on a gift for someone else's nuptials.


The data also shows just how unpopular wedding lists are - with one in five adults disliking being told what to buy. Instead, they prefer to give more traditional gifts, such as items for the home or financial contributions towards the honeymoon.


Manchester is found to be the most generous city when it comes to buying wedding gifts according to the research, with an average spend of £66.22 per wedding gift.


Newlyweds from Newcastle should give guests wedding lists to choose from at their own risk, as Geordies are more irritated by this than residents from any other city, with 32 per cent saying they aren't comfortable with being asked to buy from a wedding list.


Wedding guests in Cardiff have been exposed as the most sneaky when it comes to gifting, as 83 per cent admit to having taken something from their own home and given it as a wedding gift.


Aoife Davey, group marketing manager at One4all, the Post Office Gift Card, which commissioned the research, said: 'It's interesting to see the extent to which selecting and buying a gift can stress people out - and also quite alarming how many people have resorted to quite cheeky tactics when the panic has set in.


'It's also clear that British adults prefer to go down the traditional route of selecting a gift for the happy couple themselves, rather than being dictated to by something like a wedding list, and that traditional types of gifts - such as homeware and useful appliances - are still the preferred to choice of many guests.'


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タグ :weddings


Posted by milanstyle at 11:49Comments(0)wedding