Milan Style

1. The bubble skirt beckonsA look for hipsters - big-hipped not bearded - to fear, Alexander Wang's homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga's archive saw structural skirts that shoot out below the waistline return to favour. Prissy, old-school glamour with a tough industrial edge, this collection was all about the architecture of clothes. The result was stunning. Fabergé prints found homes on dresses with sculptural bodices while gun-metal embroidery lent detail to skirts and smooth-shouldered blouses. Of course mere mortals might want to skip the staple-detail tops and team their bubble of choice with a classic white shirt. It's just easier.

Photo: wedding dress styles

2. Four buttons are better than two

At its most complex, Raf Simons's latest collection for Dior is an intellectual celebration of the wildness of contemporary women and a study into how our primate sensibilities merge with the mundanity of modern life. At its simplest? It's a lesson in how to cut the most desirable suit around next season. Set to bring sharp dressing back into the style fold, the Dior suit is double-breasted, slightly cinched at the waist and presented alongside the perfect pair of pressed crop trousers. Expect to see this two-piece in a host of luscious shades.

3. Tattered glamour is the new effortless elegance

"I find glamour quite complex," said Phoebe Philo after the Céline show on Sunday. "When is it sexualised? When is it not?" These were big questions to which Céline's first lady responded with a remarkable collection of dishevelled silhouettes, heavy embroidery and fluid silk dresses. These were sensual clothes for the woman who finds vulgarity in that which is exaggerated and over the top. Philo called it "tattered". And it was, terrifically so.

4. Swap your flares for harems

Air from exotic climes permeated many collections. Roland Mouret paid homage to the modern nomadic spirit. Oriental influences were sprinkled like cherry blossoms through Dries. And Alber Elbaz - the Moroccan-born designer of the house of Lanvin - sought inspiration from his native country. Among the leather harness belts and goat hair coats, one thing became clear - harem trousers are back in vogue. Though, as Elbaz showcases with a well-placed tuxedo stripe and tasselled belt, only if they're suitable for cocktail hour. (As Cara Delevingne confirmed yesterday by championing a pair by Stella McCartney).

5. Piercing is pretty

Of all the trends to come out of Paris, the one for facial jewellery will inevitably be the most influential. Cue yelps from the capital's piercing parlours as fashion fans flock to get their septum's spliced à la the "Victorian chola girls" who stalked Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy runway. This was a beautifully mournful collection that offered luxurious drama. For Stella McCartney, a pearl-stud earcuff reigned supreme, while at Acne the focus returned to the septum once more.

6. The ankle boot is back

The woman who brought us the wedge sneaker that launched a thousand waiting lists has another trick up her sleeve this season: the ankle boot. The style cropped up elsewhere on the catwalks - crafted from vinyl with Perspex heels at Dior, in white leather at Céline and in shades of claret and bottle green vegan leather at Stella McCartney - but Isabel Marant's buckled incarnations are on course to become the sell-out success story of AW15. This trend may not be ground breaking, but it will make getting dressed next season simpler.

7. A polo neck goes with everything

Fashion history can often be categorised by hemlines. This season, however, was defined by a neckline. Across the board at all four capitals, the polo neck made more appearances on the catwalk than Kayne West on the front row. The resounding message? Wear it with everything. As demonstrated beautifully at Dries Van Noten's "grounded glamour" collection, the humble roll neck strikes a modern accord with refined daywear and relaxed evening attire - and everything in between.

8. Material girls love Saint Laurent

Hedi Slimane's shtick is familiar fashion respun for the Saint Laurent customer in luxurious fabrics. To this end, a collection of bedraggled prom queens formed the basis of his autumn/winter collection. The silhouette, A-line and frothy, is one part Madonna circa 1987 and another part LA thrift store chic. For your wardrobe it spells frou-frou netting, ripped tights and stretchy metallic jersey - at a very high cost.

9. Corduroy is cool

No, really. And you don't have to be edgier than edgy to carry it off. Just weeks after London designer Jonathan Anderson unveiled his homage to the not-even-cool-enough-for-school textile, Chloé's Clare Waight Keller joined the crusade. A muted lilac corduroy jumpsuit, worn with a bohemian blouse in white silk, served as a highlight in a collection that was Chloé's strongest in recent seasons.